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Exploring the underground world of Cappadocia: Derinkuyu

By 3:40 p.m.

What if I told you that there are cities beneath Cappadocia? Would you believe me?

Well, during my time in Central Anatolia I got to visit one of the more than 200 underground cities that exist in the provinces of Nevsehir and Kayseri. But before I tell you more about it, there is some important information you should know.

These caves may have first been built in the soft volcanic rock of Cappadocia between the 7th or 8th centuries B.C. During Roman times, the underground dwellings were inhabited by the Cappadocian Greeks, who as Christians built churches and chapels. Before Christianity became the official religion of the Empire, these communities were constantly under attack of soldiers, forcing them to hide underground. Although they hid for months, these caves were never actually their permanent home.

The underground cities were used as hiding places from raids during various periods in history: during the Arab-Byzantine wars, the Mongolian incursions and Ottoman persecutions. The tunnels were finally abandoned after the population exchange between Turkey and Greece in 1923, during which the Orthodox Christian inhabitants were expelled from the country.
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Standing in front of the entrance of Derinkuyu, I really had no idea what to expect. But once I started descending into the darkness of the tunnels, I realised how hard life must have been for the people that were forced to hide. Derinkuyu is the largest excavated underground city in Turkey and extends to a depth of 60 m. It had enough space to shelter approx. 20,000 people with their livestock and food.

Inside the caves, I was told that Cappadocians were among the first ever to produce wine. We were also shown how each floor could be closed separately with large stone doors with holes in the centre, used to attack the invaders with spears or by throwing arrows at them.

It's actually pretty cold down there, so if you ever visit one of these cities don't forget to take a jacket. For some it might be quite scary, since it's pretty narrow and dark. It's so hard to imagine the lives of people inside these caves; I was so impressed to find out they didn't even venture to abandon the underground cities until the sieges were over, and sometimes the raids lasted for months! At least they were connected to other underground cities through a network of tunnels.

As soon as I got to the surface I was happy to see the sun again and feel the wind blowing in my face. I guess Cappadocians must have felt the same way.
 

Derinkuyu underground city. 
Inside Derinkuyu underground city. 

A passage in Derinkuyu. 

Ventilation shaft also used as a well. 

This cruciform church is located on the fifth  level (floor). 

Exploring Derinkuyu. 

Exploring Derinkuyu. 

Exploring Derinkuyu. 

Derinkuyu underground city. 
Exploring Derinkuyu. 
Exploring Derinkuyu. 
Derinkuyu underground city.  




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