Imagine white sand beaches, crystal clear waters, palm trees standing tall against the sun on islands in the Caribbean, and friendly and welcoming hosts. Does it sound like a dreamlike place? Well, I'm glad to inform you paradise exists and it is called Guna Yala. Also called San Blas, Guna Yala is the home of the Guna indigenous people of Panama, who have managed to maintain their sovereignty and keep their traditions alive.

The four-hour journey to San Blas from Panama City is one I will never forget. A steep and winding jungle road will offer the avid traveller who has an eye for the beauty of nature some of the most breathtaking views of lush mountains and untouched rainforest, which stretch as far as the eye can reach, with occasional remote houses to each side of the road. At that early hour the mountains were covered by a thin layer of fog, which gave the landscape a mysterious look. I felt as if we were driving through a cloud, waking up the world as we passed by.

We arrived at the port of Carti Tupile at around 9 am, after two stops. The first stop was for our driver to drink some coffee, and the second time at a toll booth in order to pay the tax to enter indigenous territory. Afterwards we boarded one of the little lanchas and headed to beautiful Senidup, where we spent the whole day. The people on the island provided a delicious lunch, and there are public toilets and changing rooms.

It is important to clarify that Senidup is used by the Guna mainly for tourism. Other islands are inhabited, such as Ustupu or Ogobsucun. What was impressive from the boat ride was to observe how crowded the inhabited islands are! Guna people certainly know and appreciate the value of living among the many and as a part of a community.

To understand Guna lived experiences one must first have an insight in their history. What they say, according to anthropologist Paolo Fortis, is that they originally came from the area between Panama and Colombia. They inhabited the Darien Gap, but due to clashes with another indigenous group, the Embera, they slowly started moving northwards to the Caribbean coast of Panama and to the San Blas Archipelago, which is their territory today. Guna people successfully resisted assimilation during colonisation and kept fighting to defend their rights ever since. In 1925 they staged the Tule Revolution and were officially granted autonomy by the Panamanian government. They are one of the most well organised indigenous groups in the Americas, and constitute an example for other indigenous people in the struggle to secure their rights to land and to exercise their culture and beliefs.

It is important to note that they see themselves as part of the Panamanian State, although in the condition of an indigenous groups. They are also well aware of the challenges that a rapidly changing world means for them. Some of the problems they have to address include illegal activities such as drug trafficking in their territory, and the desire of Guna youth to stay in Panama City. Guna elders mentioned to Fortis that the continuity of ancestral practices is one of their biggest concerns.

Guna people are also constantly exposed to influences from other peoples through tourism and religious missions. As a matter of fact, during our boat trip from the Port of Carti to Senidup, my new Guna friend pointed at two Mormon missionaries who were transporting themselves from island to island in a canoe. My friend also pointed at the Mormon temple on one of the islands. Besides, Guna people are used by now to see and care for tourists who visit San Blas.

After one year living in the UK, I can't explain how much I was longing to bathe in warm waters again. So when we arrived to Senidup, I didn't wait long to get in the water, even though it started raining. It was the most beautiful feeling in the world, and I felt so happy to be back in the water, back home. The weather didn't get any better, but to me it wasn't important. In Senidup I felt safe and isolated from the rest of the world even if at least for a day. It was almost as if I had the remote control to silence the world and I clicked on the mute button. I was in a haven of tranquility. It was just me, the sea, and the sound of waves crashing against the warm shores.

A piece of Guna wisdom says everyone will have their own zoo in paradise, and I think Guna people know paradise with the palm of their hands.

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You can book day tours or weekend trips with San Blas Experience, totally recommended!