Far up in the north of Scotland there is a region whose outstanding natural beauty never ceases to provide dreamlike imagery for adventurers. Vast, exciting, and pristine, and at the same time remote; its landscapes and stories are slowly unravelled to the patient traveller with a profound appreciation of the sheer beauty of nature. It is an enchanting world of its own. A world I will gladly describe for you as I saw and felt it over a month ago.
Scotland is one of the most amazing places I've ever visited: a country so rich in history and traditions, which are a reason of endless pride for Scots regardless where they are in the globe. During my two previous trips in Scotland I visited the two largest cities, Edinburgh and Glasgow, but didn't have enough time to venture further north. As they say, the third time is the charm, and it surely was because I finally reached the Highlands.
After a long train journey from Leeds we reached Inverness quite late in the afternoon. It was raining and it was dark, but we were still able to walk along the River Ness and enjoy beautiful views of Inverness Castle during our first hours in town. Inverness is a great departure point for any exploration of this region.
On that very wet and chilly night we recharged our batteries at a local pub with traditional Scottish grub and great local ales. Afterwards I searched online for tour operators, crossing my fingers that we would find something. Luckily I found WOW Scotland, a family run business offering tours even during wintertime. They replied to me immediately and everything was arranged for our exploration of the Highlands.
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The first light of day and the warm welcome by Paul, our awesome guide, marked the start of our adventure. Having him as our guide gave us the opportunity to see Scotland through the eyes of a person who truly loves this country. He is really passionate about Scottish culture and has spent a long time exploring all corners of this beautiful part of the world as a photographer.
We drove amidst the rain towards our first destination: Loch Ness. The blueish light gave the world-famous lake a mysterious appearance on that winter morning. We stopped at one side of the road while Paul explained the story behind Nessie. Turns out legends about an enormous creature inhabiting the depths of this lake have existed since 565 AD, when it was recorded that a monster snatched and ate a local farmer before being forced back into the water by St. Columba. Paul explained that these stories might be inspired by Scottish myths about water creatures called Kelpies. To this day there is no proof confirming the existence of a monster. Whatever the truth is, Loch Ness is still very impressive.
Overlooking Loch Ness from a headland, Urquhart Castle is a representation of the romantic Scotland that has inspired many writers and attracted scores of visitors to the region. It played an important role during the Wars of Scottish independence, and was raided multiple times during the conflict between clan MacDonald and Clan Grant. It was partially destroyed to prevent Jacobite forces of using it, and fell into decay until it was placed in state care and then opened to the public.
The Jacobite Uprising of 1745 left visible marks in the vastness of this landscape. One of them is the cairn that marks the spot where Robert Mackenzie was killed. Long story short, the Jacobite Uprising was the attempt of Bonnie Prince Charlie to regain the British throne for the exiled House of Stewart. He found many supporters in the Highlands who were loyal to him to the very end. Bonnie Prince Charlie, also known as the Young Pretender, was forced to hide after the Jacobite forces were defeated at the Battle of Culloden. British troops put a price on his head and were searching for him when they stumbled upon Robert Mackenzie, a man of similar size and resemblance to the prince. So they killed him thinking they had found the prince, which gave the latter enough time to flee to the continent.
Besides learning more from the fascinating history of the Highlands, my favourite part of the morning was taking in the views at Glen Shiel and the Five Sisters of Kintail. Glen Shiel was the site of a battle between British troops and an alliance of Jacobites and Spanish during the Jacobite Uprising. This beautiful valley is now a peaceful place in the Western Highlands. Paul took us off the beaten path and through a kissing gate to a marvellous spot for pictures with breathtaking views of mountains and lochs.
During the first hours of my exploration of the Highlands I came to the conclusion that you just don't visit Scotland. You feel it. Throbbing in the back of your mind, you'll always see the images that marvelled you because it is absolutely impossible to forget so much beauty. For this and many more reasons Scotland and especially the Highlands will always occupy a very special place in my heart. The beauty of this landscape will stay with me forever.
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If you're interested in visiting the Scottish Highlands I highly recommend booking a tour with WOW Scotland. They are the best tour operator ever! Hopefully you'll be lucky enough to have Paul Tompkins as your guide. Part two and three of my Highlands exploration will follow shortly!
