SpiegelEye: septiembre 2016

Cairo: a city reinvented

By Unknown 8:38 p.m. Africa

Two years ago I embarked on one of the most incredible adventures of my life so far. I was 20 years old and it was my first time in Africa. I boarded a plane in Frankfurt and my destination was Cairo, a city with so many sides, so much history, and countless little wonders.

I remember sitting alone at the boarding gate after a long sleepless night, wondering what I would encounter in Cairo, a place I had so often imagined and visited in dreams. From Fustat to Ottoman province, from the slums of Mokattam to the mighty Pyramids, I learned that Cairo is only a word used to describe the multiplicity of small systems that are part of a unity. I also learned it is essential to understand this in order to enjoy this, one of the most populated cities in the world.

I got lost in slums, met new people at bazaars, saw the mighty Pyramids standing silent in the desert, I admired the courage of Egyptians to introduce changes in their society, I marvelled at the sheer beauty of the Nile, but most importantly, I was able to observe a metropolis in flux.
Panta rhei - Everything flows.

Each picture is a slice of a time in which this city is being born again. Abdel Fattah al Sisi was elected President of Egypt in 2014 (just three weeks after I left the country) following the ousting of the first democratically elected President of Egypt, Mohamed Morsi. In 2011 Hosni Mubarak resigned to his post after 18 days of intense protests during the Egyptian Revolution. One thing is for sure: Egyptians are willing to give their lives for their country. Even if it means until their last breath.

My trip to Egypt changed the way I look at the world. Traveller and explorer Ibn Battuta wonderfully described it in one phrase: "travelling, it leaves you speechless, then turns you into a storyteller." In this occasion I will let pictures tell the stories.

NDP headquarters (Hosni Mubarak's party) set ablaze during the Friday of Anger, Egyptian Revolution, 2011.

A couple in Al Azhar Park.
Facebook played a major role in the Egyptian Revolution of 2011.

A seed vendor in Khan el Khalili.

A girl holding Aish, Egyptian flat bread.

Sunset in Al Azhar Park.

Cairo Necropolis, also City of the Dead.
Dense grid of tombs and mausoleums from Ottoman times where people live and work amongst the dead.

Coptic Cairo scene.

Blessing, Coptic Cairo.
Copts are the largest religious minority in the country.

Streets of Coptic Cairo.

A young boy participates in a political rally outside Khan el Khalili.

My uncle Ulises and the immensity at the Giza Plateau.

A young boy working at the Pyramids. Tourism has decreased since the unrest in 2011.

Mokattam, home of the garbage-collecting Zabaleen people.

Mokattam street scene.

Children playing in a rusty swing, Mokattam.

A little girl in the Mokattam slums.

Men performing Tanoura, a Sufi dance.

Tanoura Performer.

The painter of Al Muizz street. I'll never forget his benevolent eyes.

A city in flux: Boats on the Nile.

A morning stroll around Anafiotika

By Unknown 3:30 p.m. Europe

What if I told you it is possible to enjoy island vibes right in the heart of Athens? In case you don't believe me, you should definitely check out Anafiotika. Probably one of the most interesting places I've ever visited, this small neighbourhood in the Northeast side of the Acropolis is a haven of peace and tranquility in this bustling metropolis.

Built by workers who emigrated from the Cycladic island Anafi in order to refurbish the palace of King Otto of Greece, Anafiotika was made to resemble the beauty of the home they left behind. With white-washed walls, bougainvillea flowers decorating every corner, and dead ends leading to terraces with amazing views of the city, Anafiotika is definitely a special place.

I woke up early on my last day in the Greek capital, a bit too early considering I was on my holidays, with only one thought in my mind: going for a morning stroll around Anafiotika. Without even eating breakfast, I made my way to the Acropolis hill, greeting everyone with 'Kalimera' or 'Yassas' and then asking them for directions, as it is not so easy to find this neighbourhood, where even some streets remain unnamed. I was told to cross a park, and to walk a couple of metres after which I would immediately see a small sign that reads 'Acropolis'. As soon as I entered Anafiotika, the intensity and hectic vibes from the city seemed so far away, and my ears could rejoice in a marvellous and exquisite silence.

At some point during my exploration of Anafiotika, I simply sat down to observe the wonderful views of Mount Lykavittos and Athens, with its rooftops shining under the blue Attika skies, almost like pearls adorning one of the most beautiful Mediterranean cities. Everything was so quiet, so I closed my eyes and enjoyed one of the most simple pleasures human beings can enjoy: silence.

As I made my way back to Plaka, I saw two elderly men having lunch in a house. They sat down next to each other and I stopped to observe. The whole scene was framed by the window of the house, and the Acropolis stood above them, so mighty and beautiful, and the silence was suddenly interrupted by the sound of their voices. Yet there was still silence in my heart, a peaceful sensation that I will always associate with the simple wonders of a place like Anafiotika.

Mount Lykavittos as seen from Anafiotika.

Anafiotika views.

Anafiotika.

Anafiotika views.

Walking around Anafiotika.

Acropolis.

Island vibes!

Anafiotika views.

Island vibes in the heart of Athens.

A sweet summer escape to Athens

By Unknown 3:29 a.m. Europe

Travel brings love and power back into your life. I confirmed this once again during my last adventure. A long time bucket list dream, I travelled to Greece in July for one week full of fun, sun, friends, and orange moons.

As the plane slowly approached Eleftherios Venizelos Airport, I couldn't stop looking out the window. Under the blue Attica skies, a multitude of small islands and green cliffs appeared so close, that I suddenly realised I had left the rainy English weather behind me, only to finally enjoy summer. My mind instantly switched off "thesis mode" and I forgot about the amount of work I had ahead of me in order to complete my Masters degree. Oh well, I thought. Everyone needs a little escape every now and then.

Kalimera Athens! I walked into the room of the hostel in Plaka, after dodging more than 10 taxis at Syntagma Square, and I felt an incomparable bliss as I sat down at the balcony overlooking life, in just another busy day at the Greek capital. During my first walk around Plaka I got lost in its narrow and buzzing streets, always full of tourists and with an unmistakable romantic vibe in the air. Every step I took guaranteed yet another impressive view of the Acropolis, which dominates the city skyline in this Mediterranean metropolis.

After my first walk around Plaka, I realised I was running late to meet my friend Adamantia, whom I met during my Masters. She kindly invited me to visit Greece, and I was so happy that I bought my ticket without hesitation. We met at Syntagma, and then went for a stroll down Ermou, Athens' busiest shopping street, and ended up in a cafe where I met her sister Nefeli, and her long time friends Christina and Angie, who would also be the best guides of Athens and Greece. They introduced me to one of my newest obsessions: cappuccino freddo, which is basically cold cappuccino, as it is so warm during the summer months in Greece. I was also unaware that Frappe was a Greek invention, so I tried the original one during my time there.

The girls had so many plans for me, and it was amazing to have locals show me around. The first stop was Monastiraki, a historical district with a multicultural vibe. We stopped at Monastiraki Square for some fine views of the Acropolis at sunset, and I suddenly had the impression that instead of going home, more and more people started flooding the square, coming and going, waiting to see where the night would take them. Our next stop during that first walking tour was Plaka, with its colourful and pretty houses. I must admit that I fell in love with Plaka, maybe because it was my home in Athens, or probably because of its laid-back atmosphere and impressive views of the Acropolis and of Mount Lycabettus.

We walked around Thissio afterwards, with its multiple cultural meeting points and cute cafes, and with Greek Shadow Puppet Theatre performances taking place everywhere. This traditional art form takes place in public squares mostly during summertime, and the stories are taken from Greek mythology and everyday life. We ended the day in Gazi, home to numerous clubs and bars, where we had beers at a Taratza (rooftop bar), with the best views of the Acropolis. Every now and then I had to look at the Parthenon and pinch myself to make sure it was real, it was happening, I was in Greece! We walked home through Kerameikos, the potter's quarter, with its impressive archaeological remains that looked like a perfect playground for a big kid like me.

With each passing day, I convinced myself that the beauty of Athens lies in the time you take to enjoy the city. The best way to enjoy the Greek capital is to allow its relaxing-meets-chaotic vibe to take over you. Athens is where Antiquity and Modernity are intertwined and shine at its best; it is where a cup of coffee becomes an opportunity to fix the world and its problems; it is where Greek people will show you that with crisis and all, there's always a reason to go out and enjoy life, and as they would say, Halali!

Wherever you go you will find love, and with it you will find power. Sometimes in the most unexpected ways, it will change you, and the best thing you can do is to embrace it. Athens in a nutshell is love and power. Once you've had a taste of its vibrant atmosphere, you'll feel it throbbing in the back of your mind, in every nerve, it will hit you like a rush of blood to the head. And you will always want to go back, and feel it again, and again and again.