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L'Orient prochain: Panama City's oriental corners

By 4:14 p.m.

 If there is an undeniable fact about ethnic groups in Panama, it would be that the Chinese community constitutes one of the most influential in the country, not only in the economic aspect, but also in the culture. All over the country you'll find chinitos, convenience stores owned by Chinese Panamanian citizens, which provide every barrio with the essential goods; almost every capitalino (a Panama City native) knows and loves to eat the Chinese breakfast served at the Lung Fung restaurant; and if you live in the country it's highly possible that more than one of your friends is of Chinese origin or descent.

As of 2003, it is estimated that there are between 135,000 and 200,000 Chinese in Panama, making it the largest Chinese community in Central America.

But, how and when did they start arriving?
The Chinese community in Panama started to form in the latter half of the 19th century, when labourers were brought to work on the Panama railroad. By the beginning of the 20th century, they already played a very important role in other sectors of the economy, such as commerce. Nevertheless, they were forced to face harsh situations such as being called "undesirable citizens" by a 1903 law and the revocation of their citizenship under the 1941 constitution promulgated by the then president Arnulfo A. Madrid.  Five years later, the new constitution restored their citizenship by declaring all people born in Panama to be citizens.

During the dictatorship of Manuel Antonio Noriega, which ended with the US Invasion of Panama in 1989, many fled to the United States or Colombia. Nowadays, the older Chinatowns in Panama City have less importance due to the opening of larger department stores or huge malls, though there are still retailers of Chinese products in areas like Salsipuedes and El Dorado.

Ask anyone and they'll have mixed feelings about salaito, a snack sold at chinitos. No one is really sure what it is after all. I recently read in a Panamanian blog that salaitos are made of dried fruit covered with a red powder. It definetely has an interesting flavour.  Other common snack loved by Panamanians is mafa, which is basically fried bread, a bit smaller than breadsticks. I love this one and like to eat it at the movies, sometimes instead of popcorn. There is even a school in Panama City where students learn Mandarin Chinese until they graduate.

What's even more amazing is how Chinese influence is part of Panamanian culture. I dare to say one couldn't exist without the other one. Just walk around town and you'll notice it. There's a sense of natural coexistence between two cultures that may seem really distant, but have blended here in a way I believe is quite unique. I mean, nowhere else in the world you could greet a Chinese person by calling him "chino" in his/her face, without there being a problem or a misunderstanding (this, of course, depends on the tone of your voice).

Panama has undoubtedly so much to thank the Chinese community. Personally, I couldn't imagine my city without chinitos, Avenida B, Siu mai, Mafa and Don Lee, my Chinese Panamanian friends and many other aspects that are now part of our culture.

Panama City Chinatown. 
From inside one chinito

 There are chinitos everywhere in the country.  

View of Santa Ana square from inside a Chinese restaurant on Avenida Central.  
Dim sum, siu mai, chow mein: you'll find every delicious Chinese dish you can think of in the restaurants
behind el Dorado mall. 
Parque de la amistad chino-panameno: Chinese Panamanian friendship park in Panama City. 
Don Lee is the most popular Chinese fast-food chain in the city. I've been told by Chinese Panamanian friends
that the food is not authentic Chinese, but Panamanians love it anyway. 

In Hung's Center you can buy rice noodles, Chinese fortune cookies and more delicacies to prepare at home. 


Couldn't help to notice this soda can in el Dorado. 



Chinese allure in the tropics. 

Details on the roof of a gazebo. 

Even though the Chinese Panamanian friendship park is right beside a very busy road, you can unwind and
 relax by the tranquil waters of the lake. 

Guanyin, the Chinese goddess of mercy. 

I dare to affirm that the Chinese Panamanian friendship park is one of the most peaceful spots in the city. 

Pointy details of a gazebo. 



Another chinito/bakery in Salsipuedes. 

A restaurant on Avenida B. 


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